E-mountain bikes (e-MTB) price comparison

A hardtail only has a suspension fork at the front. It is lighter, cheaper and needs less maintenance, and it is perfectly adequate for gravel, forest paths and easy trails. If you mainly commute and ride farm tracks at the weekend, an e-hardtail is usually the most sensible choice.

A full-suspension bike also has rear suspension. That gives more traction and comfort over roots and rocks, but costs weight, money and maintenance (shock servicing, more bearings). A full-suspension bike pays off if you regularly ride technical trails or want to enjoy long descents.

Mid-drive motors are standard on e-MTBs because they keep the centre of gravity low and central and transfer power through the gears. Budget models often use a rear hub motor – it works, but feels less natural on steep terrain. For serious climbing, 60 to 85 Nm of torque is typical; around 40–50 Nm is enough for hilly tours.

Battery capacity is given in watt-hours (Wh). Off-road you use considerably more energy than on tarmac, so 500 Wh is a sensible minimum for longer rides. Many listings only state volts and amp-hours: multiply the two (e.g. 36 V × 14 Ah ≈ 500 Wh) and you can compare models fairly.

Marketplaces list plenty of e-mountain bikes with specs such as 1000 W, a throttle or 45 km/h. Bikes like these are no longer pedelecs but motor vehicles – without type approval, an insurance plate and the right driving licence you may not ride them on public roads. We therefore filter these models out of this comparison page as far as possible.

The most common mistake is the wrong frame size: a frame that is too big makes the bike hard to control off-road. Go by the manufacturer's size chart for your height and inside leg. The second classic: skimping on brakes and tyres. An e-MTB often weighs over 22 kg and gets fast downhill – powerful four-piston or at least good two-piston brakes and grippy tyres matter more than a display with an app.